The first stage of planking was to calculate the taper of each plank from bow to stern. First find the widest frame on the model and measure from the keel to the deck level. On this model the measurement was 200mm.  Each of the planks to be used was 10mm wide so at the widest point of the hull 20 planks are needed. (200 divided by 10mm equals 20). Next measure the remaining frames and note down each measurement. Each measurement is then divided by 20 to give the plank width at each frame. The frames are then marked with the width of each plank.

Each plank is pinned and clamped

The first stern planks tapered to shape and pinned in place

Some areas of the hull are flat so I skinned them with 2mm thick lime wood sheet, cut to follow the lines of the tapered planks. This was quicker than using individual planks. I started to plank from the keel at the bow cutting each plank to the required taper.  When planking the hull I work on either side, to avoid stressing and warping the keel, by laying only two planks on each side at a time. Once I had completed up to the bilges I continued with the stern planking. Each plank is shaped, soaked with a small amount of water to allow easy bending, and glued in place with wood adhesive. The plank is pinned in place until the glue as set.

The work proceeds relatively slowly but care must be taken in shaping each plank to obtain the correct fit on the frames. Being patience at this stage and working methodically will result in a hull that  is accurate and a good building block for the rest of the model.  Where I have over run the plank on the last frame they can be trimmed back and the ends sanded flat with the frame.

Half of the stern planking complete

Stern planks installed working from the deck level

Next I started to work from the deck level of the hull to meet up with the planks already in place.  I found this an easier way of working. The curvature at the stern is quite sharp and therefore the edges of the planks had to be bevelled to eliminate any gaps between. 

Returning to the  bow of the hull, again working from the deck level, the bow section was completed. The next thing was to mark the positions of the bow thruster units on the wooden blocks. Once marked I used a 25mm diameter wood spade drill to cut out the openings.  Now I could start to shape the bow blocks using an electric detail sander.

Bow showing completed planking

Bow showing bow thruster holes drilled out

The last stage of the hull construction can be the most time consuming.  The planking needs to be sanded to a smooth finish.  Using the electric detail sander with a medium grit sanding pad, I started to sand the entire hull, removing the high spots and continuing until an even finish was obtained.  Next I filled any gaps with wood filler and sanded that smooth.  This completes the basic hull of the model.