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technique used on this project to construct the hull is plank on frame.
This method of hull construction involves creating a skeleton that is
then covered with individual strips of wood to form the shape of the
hull. This technique requires patience, skill and accuracy to produce
the hull. |
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| Stage
13
The ships
hull has a high fore castle deck (fo'c'sle), so I transferred the upper
half of the rib frames onto 6mm thick plywood, cut them out and sanded
them to the required shape. These were then glued in place on the main
deck. I calculated the total number of planks required from the main
deck level to the fo'c'sle deck level, to give me the correct taper
along the length of each plank. I the proceeded to cut and shape each
plank as required, gluing them in place with PVA wood adhesive. |
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Bow of hull showing
balsa blocks before sanding to shape |
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 The
fo'c'sle deck screwed temporary in place |
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Stage
14
The
fo'c'sle deck outline was drawn onto a piece of 4mm thick plywood,
allowing 2mm for the last plank to run round the edge. It was then cut
out and sanded to shape. I have temporary screwed the deck in place to
allow me to continue to work on the inside of the hull later. The last
plank of the bow was then glued in place, making sure no glue came in to
contact with the fo'c'sle deck. This gave the correct shape of the hull
and a clean crisp line around the bow. Two balsa wood blocks were cut
and glued in place at the front and sanded to the shape of the bow. |
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| Stage
15
The stern
of the ship as a large roller installed. The plans are not very clear at
this point so I went back to the Swire Pacific Offshore website an fortunately
obtained a photograph of one of the ships in dry dock from
the stern. This one photo explained how the roller fitted into the stern
of the ship. First I cut
out the section of the hull for the roller to fit into. Next from 12mm
thick plywood I cut two large disks. These form the mount for the
roller. Next I cut two blocks of balsa to form the rest of the
stern. Once the glue had set I could the start to sand the blocks
to shape. |
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Stern section of hull
cut away for the stern roller unit |
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Stern showing the
roller in position |
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Stage
16 The
roller is made from five 12mm disks of plywood glued together to form a
solid cylinder. Then 1/32" thick plywood was bent around the
cylinder to give the correct diameter and smooth finish. The
stern of the ship is complicated and getting the correct angles is
difficult. A lot of time and patience is need to get the stern to look
correct. I need to keep referring back to the photo, study it and
then work on the model. Building model ships from scratch is a time
consuming hobby. |
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| Stage
17 Finally
I apply car body filler paste to fill any defects in the hull and sand
it to the required shape. This helps to strengthen the hull, and gives a
smooth finish ready for the application of the paint. |
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Underside of the stern |
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